Outspoken and creative boss of Oriki Clothing, Mrs. Tosin Doherty in this interview with Lois Okereke talks about the fashion industry, her outfit and women’s fashion.
Q: What do you think of the body baring trend that women are into now?
A: I think most women don’t understand their body types, if you really appreciate your body, you’ll respect it. If you are young, there is something called age-appropriate dressing, depending on your age. When you are young, you can get away with mini skirts and all that, but there will come a time, when the body has matured and there is a lot of cellulite. You can’t really afford to expose those parts of your body and you will be doing yourself a favour if you dress well.
Some women at 40 still wear mini skirts. At 40, you shouldn’t wear anything above your knee unless you have fantastic legs, but the average 40-year old, no matter how skinny, will have cellulite on her thighs. You don’t have to bare your body before you wear something that is attractive or something that people will admire.
Q: What fashion item are you not likely to advise a client to go for?
A: I believe that I have a responsibility to dress people in different ways. I’m not saying that clothes cannot be a little bit daring. You hear so many stories about people getting raped and they say that men should be able to control themselves. I believe that women should also dress in a decent way so that they wouldn’t provoke the wrong kind of attention.
I think that there is a way women should dress, I don’t think if you are exposing your body, you are likely to get the kind of respect you deserve and women need to be respected. You don’t have to dress in a way that will create a wrong impression because you are a woman. Clothing is the first thing that gives anybody an impression about the kind of person you are. So for me I think wearing a very short skirt or very low riders don’t really have a place in fashion.
Q: What trends are you comfortable with?
A: I don’t believe in trends, I believe more in women dressing stylishly and wearing what suits them, so I won’t call myself a trendsetter or someone that follows trends. I believe that a woman should wear things that suits her figure, things that portrays her figure in the best possible way. For me, I think one of the best things a woman can wear is a wrap dress. It accentuates the waist depending on how you wear it. If you have very wide hips, you don’t have to wear the clinging one, you could wear the one that flares from the waist. If you are somebody that has a very cute figure you have to find something good for yourself. So I think that the wrap dress is God’s gift to fashion.
Q: Let’s talk about style, what’s your definition of style?
A: I think it’s an expression of our personality, how much we perceive. Its actually the first thing, even before you open your mouth to tell people about yourself the first thing they see is you appearance and I think that with your style, you’ve told them quite a bit about yourself. I think that style is an expression of your inner being.
Q: How would you define your style?
A: I love smart, casual clothing. I love clothing that moves from event to event, that isn’t restricted. I love it when you can dress an outfit up with accessories so you can wear it out or when you can dress it down to stay at home. For me, I think the most effective style in clothing must be smart casuals. They are outfits that you can wear from the office to church to dinner and to a party.
Q: Let’s talk about you and fashion designing, was it something you set out to do?
A: I don’t think I decided to do it, I think I more or less stumbled into it. It wasn’t like a natural progression of things. As a child growing up, I’ve always sketched outfits, designs, clothes, and I’ve always sewn. I’m always adjusting clothes, making them a little to my own taste, re-designing, re-creating ready made outfits. Along the line, I realized that I have a passion for clothes. I was told that you have to do things that you have passion and love for, and for me, that is clothes. That is how I found myself in it. I went for some training. I still go for some odd courses, on and on. I started the business, called some tailors and we came together to groom the outfit.
Q: What drives you?
A: I love seeing people look really good and I like seeing people comfortable in what they wear. It’s nice to wear an elegant gown, but if you are not looking comfortable, if it doesn’t flow with you, it doesn’t work. I love it when I create a fit and it suits the person’s personality. I also create something that portrays the person in the best possible light, in terms of her figure, her style and what works for her.
Q: Looking at the name of your outfit, Oriki Clothing, do you do only ethnic clothing?
A: No, I have a passion for ethnic clothing but at the same time we have shorts, we do jeans, we do tailored trousers for women. The name, Oriki Clothing, comes from the fact that when I design, basically I have the black women in mind, considering that black women have some special needs. Her figure is different from that of European women. Those are the things that brought on Oriki and not just the ethnic thing. The Oriki is more like a call to the African woman.
Q: What fabrics do you work with?
A: I work a lot with Ankara, but we also do a lot with linen, cottons, chiffon but I like natural fibres. I’m not a fan of polyester and man made fabrics. I love like silk, silk chiffons, linens because I think for our weather, they are easier to wear.
Q: What do you think of the fashion industry and the stage we are now?
A: We are still evolving, but Nigeria is blessed with a lot of talents. We have fantastic designers, we have very, very creative people here in Nigeria, and we have very skilled people. Nigerian tailors are very good but the problem I see in the industry is materials. We don’t have good fabrics.
If we can have our own fabric industries and accessories, we’ll produce clothing that meet international standard and even export. Then, we’ll be talking about mass production.
Q: A lot of people believe there is a lack of professionalism in the industry. What’s your take on that?
A: I don’t believe you have to know how to sketch to be a fashion designer. There are people in fashion business abroad, people like Ralph Lauren and several others, who can’t sketch. There is a top French designer who use to drape the fabrics. He gets a live model and drapes the fabric on the model and pin it the way he wants. He later calls the seamstresses who will sew the outfit together. So I believe that your inability to sketch is not really a barrier but I think the most important thing as a designer is the ability to communicate your ideas.
Even right now, there is computer aided designing. I think as Nigerians, we are being harsh as well. To me, sketching is not a requirement. I think when we say professionalism, it is not only in the fashion designing business. In any business, there is always a level of professionalism. How you treat your customers is one of the things we need to focus on. Maybe the governing body is going to have more rules and regulations. I think those are the issues in terms of the structure in the industry.
Q: Now let’s look at the men’s clothing, do you do men clothing?
A: I do shirts for men, I’ve done Kaftans, but I have not developed my men’s clothing line yet.
Q: Why?
A: The women’s line is a full time job and I’m still trying to cope. I also do clothing for children. They say jack of all trades, master of none. I’m trying to be focused.
Q: Who are your role models in the fashion industry?
A: In Nigeria, there is one name, Maufechi. She’s been doing it for a very long time, she is somebody I will like to model myself after because she’s getting it right. Internationally, I love DVF, Caroline Ferera, Donna Karan, I love very simple clean cut.
Q: Now if you are to advise a woman on how to stock her wardrobe what are those must have things that you will ask her to go for?
A: I believe that everybody should have a good pair of jeans, they are very versatile, and I also believe that you should have a good pair of well cut dark trousers, white shirt, one or two T-shirts, beautiful skirts and well fitted long skirt and blouse. At least, that will see you through, except you are a banker and you need a suit.
Q: What about accessories?
A: It depends on the length of your neck, if you have a short neck you can’t do dangling earrings too well, so you may have to do the studs or something closer to the ears. You also need a ring, a necklace, charm bracelet and a good wrist watch.
Q: What is your typical day like?
A: I wake up about 5.15 a.m., wake up my kids, get them ready for school, about 6.15 a.m., I go back to bed and wake up again around 7.30 a.m. and do some other necessary things and about 9 a.m., I go to my workshop meet with my tailors discuss the work for the day. If I need to sketch things out for them I will do that. Then I will go to my office in Allen attend to my business affairs. Sometimes I have to see clients. I sleep quite early, by 10 p.m. I’m already in the bed.
Q: How do you relax?
A: I watch TV, I watch Style channel a lot. I love listening to music, not a particular music because I love all sorts of music. To be precise, right now I love Asa and 9ice . When I say I love 9ice it’s not just Gongo Aso but the whole album. I like shopping, because for me, that is relaxing
Q: What is your vision for Oriki Clothing?
A: We want to develop a ready-made line, a situation where people come in to our shop and pick some of the ready made clothes off the shelves. We also want to get it right in terms of sizing.
Q: Give us an insight into your background?
A: I went to Methodist Girls High School, Yaba, from there I went to University of Lagos. I have a degree in Psychology. I have a post-graduate diploma in Mass Communication from Unilag. I have also done some courses in garment production and design.
Q: What is a Psychology student doing in fashion designing?
A: Clothing is an expression of our inner most thoughts and ideas. I’m sure I’m making my mark somehow, and there are lot of women that have body issues. I think with my background, I’m also helping them to dress better.
Q: Are you married?
A: I’m married to a very wonderful gentleman, and I have three beautiful kids.
Q: How would you describe yourself?
A: I’m a very simple person, very shy. I talk a lot but I’m very shy.
Comment